Optics · How-To
Air rifle holdover: using mil-dots and MOA to hit at any distance
Researched by James · Updated September 26, 2026 · Editorial policy
On this page
- What is holdover, and why not just dial the turret?
- How much does a pellet or slug actually drop at distance?
- How do you build your own holdover chart?
- What does 1 mil or 1 MOA actually mean at airgun distances?
- Can you range a target with mil-dots instead of a rangefinder?
- Does first vs second focal plane change how you use holdover?
- FAQ
- Sources
Mil and MOA values and the ballistic-software history below are drawn from optics manufacturer pages and independent ballistics references, cited at the bottom of this page. Full methodology & editorial policy →
Guessing holdover at 20, 40, and 60 yards is how misses happen on birds and rabbits past your zero. Here's how to actually build a chart, and how to read a mil-dot or MOA reticle once you have one.
What is holdover, and why not just dial the turret?
Holdover means aiming above (or below, for close shots inside your zero) your actual point of impact, using marks etched into the reticle, instead of turning the elevation turret. It's faster in the field because you don't have to stop, count clicks, and re-shoulder the rifle. Turret dialing is more precise for a single known distance, which is why long-range and field-target shooters often prefer it; holdover wins for a hunter ranging targets on the move. See what every scope knob does for how the turrets themselves work.
How much does a pellet or slug actually drop at distance?
There's no universal number, and any chart that gives you one without asking your rifle's velocity is guessing. A 950 fps .22 slug and a 600 fps .22 dome pellet from two different rifles can differ by an inch or more of drop at 40 yards, because drop depends on muzzle velocity, projectile weight, and ballistic coefficient (how well it resists air drag) together, not caliber alone. The only reliable path is chronographing your actual load, the same way we chronograph every load before trusting it on game; a Garmin Xero or similar radar chronograph gives you the real number instead of a box-label estimate. My own 40.1gr slug setup runs at a very different velocity than a stock .22 pellet rifle, which is exactly why its holdover chart is built from its own chronograph numbers, not borrowed from anywhere else.
How do you build your own holdover chart?
- Chronograph your load. Get a real average velocity over 10 shots, not a single reading.
- Find your pellet or slug's ballistic coefficient (BC). Manufacturers publish this, or a reputable retailer's spec sheet will list it.
- Enter both into a ballistic app. Strelok Pro is the tool Hawke itself now points customers to, after discontinuing its own ChairGun software at the end of 2018. Add your scope height over bore and your zero distance.
- Pull drop numbers in inches, mils, or MOA at 5 or 10-yard increments out to your longest realistic shot.
- Convert to reticle marks if you're holding over rather than dialing, using the mil or MOA values for your specific scope's reticle.
- Confirm live at as many of those distances as you can access, since software models don't catch everything a real barrel and load combination does.
The velocity numbers that feed this whole process come from the same energy math as the FPE chart; if your rifle's actual output doesn't match the manufacturer's claim, your holdover chart will be wrong no matter how good the software is.
What does 1 mil or 1 MOA actually mean at airgun distances?
| Distance | 1 mil (MRAD) | 1 MOA |
|---|---|---|
| 25 yd | ≈0.9 in | ≈0.26 in |
| 50 yd | ≈1.8 in | ≈0.52 in |
| 75 yd | ≈2.7 in | ≈0.78 in |
| 100 yd | ≈3.6 in | ≈1.05 in |
This is why a holdover mark that looks huge at 25 yards covers far less real distance than the same mark at 100 yards — the angular measurement stays constant, but the inches it represents shrink with range. The full math on click values and choosing between the two systems is in MOA vs MIL: which should you use?
Can you range a target with mil-dots instead of a rangefinder?
Yes, if you know roughly how big the target is. The formula is: range in yards equals the target's height in yards, divided by its height in mils as seen through the scope, times 1000. It's a useful backup skill, but a dedicated laser rangefinder is faster and doesn't require estimating an animal's size under pressure; see best hunting rangefinders if you're deciding whether to add one.
Does first vs second focal plane change how you use holdover?
Yes. On a first focal plane (FFP) scope, the reticle grows and shrinks with magnification, so mil or MOA marks stay accurate at any zoom setting. On a second focal plane (SFP) scope, the marks are only accurate at one specific magnification, usually the highest, so either lock your power ring there or do the conversion math for whatever power you're actually on. The full comparison is in first focal plane vs second focal plane scopes.
FAQ
What is holdover on an air rifle scope?
Holdover is aiming above (or below, for close shots) the actual point of impact using marks on the reticle, instead of dialing the turret, to compensate for pellet or slug drop at a given distance. It only works if you know how many mils or MOA of drop your specific load has at that range.
How much does a pellet drop at 40 yards?
It depends entirely on your caliber, pellet or slug weight, and muzzle velocity, so there's no single number that applies to every rifle. A 950 fps .22 slug and a 600 fps .22 dome from two different rifles can differ by an inch or more of drop at 40 yards, which is why a holdover chart has to be built from your own chronographed velocity, not copied from someone else's rifle.
What ballistic app should I use to build a holdover chart?
Strelok Pro is the app Hawke itself now recommends, since Hawke discontinued its own ChairGun software at the end of 2018. Enter your pellet or slug's weight, ballistic coefficient (from the packaging or manufacturer site), your chronographed muzzle velocity, and your scope height over bore, and it outputs drop in inches, mils, or MOA at any distance.
What does 1 mil equal at different distances?
1 mil (also called 1 MRAD) is about 3.6 inches at 100 yards, so it scales linearly: 1.8 inches at 50 yards, 0.9 inch at 25 yards, and 7.2 inches at 200 yards. Multiply 3.6 by your range in hundreds of yards to get the inch value at any distance.
What does 1 MOA equal at different distances?
1 MOA is about 1.047 inches at 100 yards, close enough to round to 1 inch for field use. At 50 yards that's about 0.5 inch, and at 25 yards about 0.26 inch, so MOA and mil marks both shrink proportionally as range decreases, which is exactly why the same reticle mark doesn't correspond to the same inch value at every distance.
Can you use mil-dots to range a target as well as hold over?
Yes, if you know the target's approximate size. Range in yards equals the target's height in yards divided by its height in mils, multiplied by 1000, though this only works reliably on FFP scopes where the reticle subtensions stay accurate at every magnification; on SFP scopes it's only accurate at one specific magnification, usually the top end.
Do you need a first focal plane (FFP) scope to use holdover correctly?
Not necessarily, but it changes how you use it. On an FFP scope, the reticle grows with magnification, so mil or MOA marks are accurate at any zoom level. On an SFP scope, they're only accurate at one magnification, usually maximum, so you either stay at that power or do the math to adjust.
How many holdover distances do you actually need for hunting?
Three to five is usually enough for most airgun hunting: your zero distance, then roughly 10, 20, and 30 yards past it, since that covers the range most rabbit, squirrel, and bird shots fall into. Add a longer one if you regularly take shots past 60-70 yards.